Saturday, August 31, 2013

The Monument To Water

This is a picture of one of the pools at Wat Muang Tam in the province of Buriram, Thailand.  It was built about eight hundred years ago by the then ascendant Cambodians, the Khmer.

Temples in Thailand can be a mixed bag as far as which religions and deities are involved.  Many from this period strenuously mix their metaphors, drawing from Hinduism, Buddhism, the prior semi-animism of the lingus/yoni religion, and everything in between.  This one is no different in its statuary, but the real focus of the place is the virtual worship of water itself.

There are big pools like this one at all compass points, and there are water channels in all of the footpaths and stairways.  These are small channels, about an inch wide and an inch deep, allowing the water to travel along the sides of the paths.  The whole place is designed so that on a certain holiday, or holidays, a managed overflow can be created, which will connect the pools and fill all of the water channels.  Controlling water was one of the ways that the Khmer kings proved their divinity.  The great temple complex at Angkor Wat is the ultimate expression of this, a water event as big as Dallas. Forgive me if I do not visit Angkor.  It is in Cambodia, after all.  I am a somewhat adventurous man, but there are limits.
 
This place is all the way out of the way, and the day that I visited I was almost alone.  Me and my driver, one local couple showed up after a while, that's it.  No staff, no admission, no maintenance people, nothing.  It was eerily quiet, you could hear leaves drop, which was totally appropriate.  The route to this place is way off the beaten path, about fifty twists and turns on small streets and through a couple of small towns and finally a ride on a two lane road through farms, almost to the Cambodian border.   There are no local buses, you'll have to hire a driver like I did.  It's the most amazing of all of the sites that I've visited, unique in my (albeit limited) experience.

I'd recommend it.  Here's a few more pix. 





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